So, as you readers may have gathered from the title, tonight Micah and I found and entered the Denki Furo. Obviously such a momentous occasion deserves the lion's share of attention in this dispatch, but first some recap of the past few days.
Day 4 was spent in search of a charger and batteries for my camera, since I left those in Mill Valley. We went to Akihabara, the electronics district, to seek it out. Our efforts were rewarded, and now I have a functioning camera, so pictures should start to be a part of this little blog thing. We then wandered around for a while, taking in the myriad electronics shops of all types. There were high end audio stores, strictly lightbulb stores, used stores -- even one shop that sold strictly oscilloscopes and test equipment. My dad would have been like a kid in a candy shop. I was also surprised to see lots and lots of independent apple stores, so I guess the apple is alive and well over here. We also stopped to watch a video that was playing that showcased different bugs fighting to the death. Not something you'd see in the US, and sure to have some PETA panties all in a bunch. From there, we went to Roppongi, which was actually pretty dissapointing. Lots of East African guys tried to get us to go in lots of bars and strip clubs, but we weren't interested. We got excited when we found a place called Fiesta, an international karaoke bar, but the sign that said "no dancing" did not sit well with us. No dancing = no fun. So then we went to a bar that specialized in international beers, but was really just a rip-off. I paid 950 yen, about 9.50 US, for a single stella artois, definitely not worth it. What was truly shocking though was that they were selling little bottles of mickey's for the same price. Now, back in Marin, we all know that mickey's is the drink of choice of derelicts and dumb high schoolers, and can be had for a about 3.50 for a 40. Japan is a strange place indeed. After all that sticker shock, we barely made the last subway home, which was a good thing as it was very cold again.
The next day, day 5, we decided to take it easy, so we slept in, and then walked over to a local park to play some backgammon. I finally beat Micah, but he still won 2 out of 3 games. At the park, the main clientèle was old Japanese guys feeding the ducks and other birds. And when I say feeding, I mean 4 loaves of bread, little chair and blanket, there all afternoon kind of feeding. Serious business indeed. Next to the park was a weird little fishing pond. Now with a fee of only 30 yen, we knew this was no trophy fishing operation. Again, its main clientèle was strange old Japanese guys with full-on setups. After a while it was apparent whatever they were going for was very small, and very seldom even bit. Finally as we were leaving, one guy caught a tiny golden carp, about 6 inches long. I figured he would either throw it back or bite right in, but he chose the firs option, probably the right call given the murky, pukey color of the water. One local restaurant type that we have become fans of are some of the local udon places. In these places, you pay and order by using a vending machine that prints out a little ticket, which you then hand directly to the cooks. By not using any wait staff, they can give you a huge meal for about 4 dollars. Now who said Japan had to be expensive? That night we went to the bar operated by the hostel chain we are staying at, which was not all that remarkable, save for the presence of an honest to god Geisha hanging out. Now, you think the archetype of Japanese decorum, grace, and manners would not be found in a smoky, cheap, and dingy bar, but you'd be wrong. Again, Japan is a strange place indeed.
Today, we got up and went first back to Harjuku and Omote Sando to take some photos now that my camera was in commission, and then walked over to Shibuya, which some describe as the heart of Japanese popular culture and fashion. This is the place where a single intersection is repeatedly filled with about 500 people every time the walk signs light up. Quite a sight. Other than that, huge department stores and tons of streetwear boutiques make up most of the area. Unfortunately, all of the fashion in Tokyo, though really awesome, is significantly more expensive than in the US. I saw a pair of Nikes I got for 70 bucks going for 140 over here. Crazy. On the way back to Asakusa, our town, we experienced the subway at rush hour. None of the fabled "pushers" were anywhere to be seen, but they weren't really necessary, as the glut of humanity did plenty of pushing all by itself. I considered myself lucky to be shoved into a corner of the subway car. When we got back, we went to a restaurant which we thought served raw Kobe beef, but actually was a cook it yourself meat place, and an exorbitantly expensive one at that. We pulled the cheapo bum move, and ordered about 4 ounces of steak between the two of us, which still ran us 25 dollars. Timmy might recall a similar Melting Pot experience from once upon a time. I then filled up on steamed buns from 7-11. Hey, they're actually not that bad, so no judging.
The big part of our evening came when we set out for a new bath house that was rumoured to contain the elusive denki furo. We were on our way, when a couple of young Japanese guys came up to us and started talking to us. Turns out one of them was an actor, who actually was a character in Battle Royale, an excellent film. They were really friendly, and invited us to go to a bar with them, but we were on a mission. Luckily, they knew where this bath house was, and took us there. It was a good thing too, as it was located in an alley of another alley, that branched off from a side street, off of the main road. Local knowledge is indispensable in these situations. We were still not sure if they had a denki furo, but we went in anyway. It was a much bigger and busier bath house than the other one we had been frequenting. We washed up, and started looking around at the baths. None of them seemed to scream "hey, climb in me and I'll zap your nuts off" so I was somewhat discouraged. We got into one that had separate sort of compartments, and was very hot, like 115 degrees Fahrenheit hot, definitely ear ringing caliber. I settled into a compartment, and Micah moved into the one adjacent to mine. As he shifted into it, his face belied something more than heat. "Oh my god" he uttered, "I think this is it." His face continued to contort with expressions switching from pain to disbelief to horror to ecstasy. This was undoubtedly the Denki Furo we had been seeking. I watched some more, but looked away as I began to anticipate my own imminent electrocution. Surges of excitement and anxiety racked my body, and I had to get out of the bath for a minute to collect myself. Micah finally managed to coax his twitching body out of the bath, and I knew that it was my time. I dipped my body back into the steaming waters, and inched towards the evil electrodes. While the rest of the baths surface was roiling and steaming, the denki furo possessed an eery calm, undisturbed save for a million tiny writhing ripples. I don't think I've ever really personified a bath, but god damn if this wasn't an evil and conniving sonnuvvabitch. I knew that too much deliberation would do me no good, so I let my body slip between the electrodes.
I have never felt so strange, so devoid of control of my body.
Instantly all of the muscles of my torso clenched uncontrollably, making it hard to breathe. My arms were possessed of their own volition, which for some reason seemed to be to move closer and closer to the electrodes, the intensity of the shock increasing with every inch closer they got to the metal panels. The intense heat of the water was nothing, all my energies were focused on surviving an experience that all common sense told me I should have been avoiding in the first place. I suppose it was meditative in a way, because I had definitely transcended the confines of the bathhouse. My mind wandered, and I found that I was beginning to relax, or at least I no longer felt that I might vomit or defecate at any second. I moved my limbs around a bit, marveling at the palpable beam of electricity that was flowing through them. I pondered the possible health benefits of this bizarre bath, which was at once painful, soothing, terrifying, and relaxing. After I felt that I had twitched for long enough, I managed to wriggle my quivering corporal self from between the electrodes, my mind long since departed. I staggered over to a room where natural springs were piped into the bathhouse, and lowered my body into the cold tub. My head was spinning, my ears were ringing, and I was not sure how to characterize the feeling that was taking hold of me. My pulse throbbed with an electric beat not its own, and the sound of the waterfalls seemed to grow louder, and louder, and louder. My head started to slip lower into the icy water, and a metallic taste was suddenly in my mouth. I thought to myself, "perhaps I am dying," and was shocked at how casually I considered the possibility. At that point, getting out of the bath seemed to be the thing to do, so I stepped out, collected myself, and got into a warmer tub. Normal thoughts came crawling back, and the previous experiences became shrouded with the gauzy veil of a recent dream. I went into some of the other baths, and even ventured into the denki furo one more time to assure myself it was real, and then returned home. I now will go to sleep having accomplished something of a life goal of mine, certainly a good way to end the day. I may return to Japan, and to the denki furo, but never will I equal that first foray into electric waters.
Until next time,
-Jack
